Hello, Friends!
Chris and I were scheduled to ascend Taiwan's highest peak, Yushan, in the first two weeks of of November. That is, before a recent barrage of storms battered the island and wiped the nature trails away. Ignorant to the fact that our travel itinerary has been thrown in limbo, Chris decided to whip me into shape for what he had planned to be several days of trail walking in Taiwan.
Our warm-up walk was the popular Dragon's Back, "only" eight kilometers long. Peanuts, I told myself. I cycle twice that distance in the gym while watching Kylie Kwong's cooking show.
When we got to the starting point, I was encouraged by a smiling cartoon of a dragon on a signpost.
It was deceptive.
The trail began with meandering ascents and descents, which alternated very quickly. There were far too many steps, instead of gentle slopes. Within five minutes, I had a side stitch. Within ten minutes, my quads were burning. It didn't help that, along the way, we encountered a lot of geriatrics who seemed to be having an easier time than myself. "Excuse me," said an old timer, as he sped ahead of me.
"Stop," I pleaded, grabbing Chris as we reached one of the peaks. "Rest, please."
"Okay," he acquisced, leading me to a wooden bench. He dug into his backpack and energetically attacked a sandwich. I tried to eat, too, knowing full well that my body needed the energy. But my throat, parched raw from huffing and puffing, didn't quite take to swallowing dry bread. I finished my bottle of Gatorade, instead.
The view from the peak was exhilarating. I've grown accustomed to overcrowded high rises and the metronomic hum of construction where we live, in Sheung Wan. But up there was so much space. I would happily drag the next person who complains that, "Hong Kong is so small!" up to Dragon's Back.
Still, I was quietly proud that we finished the walk in two hours, which was half an hour shorter than Chris' book, "Hiking All In One," suggests.
As we approached the end of the trail, we were welcomed by the smell of meats gently grilling over charcoal. "Yum," I inhaled, my tummy grumbling from not having had breakfast.
"Lunch now or later?" Chris cocked an eyebrow at me as I eyed the meats hungrily.
"Later," I replied, forcing myself to walk away. The beach beckoned. Big Wave Bay - the reward at the end of the trail.
Leaving the camera on timer sucks. Unknowing folks innocently enter your frame, and you are not quite sure, either, when the shot has finally been taken.
Chris and I ended up having fish and chips at the beach because I was too lazy to make the walk back up to the barbecue place. Beside us, a couple of beautiful Eurasian kids tucked into sloppy cheese burgers. The boys' father, a skinny Frenchman, quietly chewed on a chicken wrap, while the mum, a waifish Chinese, daintily nibbled on pork skewers from the barbecue place. The aroma of the meat's charred goodness taunted me as I dutifully did my best to ignore the happy family. I proceeded to drown my big, fat chips in ketchup and hungrily dug in.
Unlike South Bay Beach and Middle Bay, there were hardly any Speedos in Big Wave Bay. Board shorts were
de rigueur. There were gay boys around, to be sure, but even they had been pragmatic enough to observe the beach's culture. In my teeny Arena swimming trunks, I collapsed onto my beach towel in embarrassment.
The pressure in my left ear started to bug me. "I'm going for a dip," I told Chris, hoping that the salt water would help ease the dull ache.
Powerful waves and tiny swimming trunks don't go together. The curls would hurl me forward, my rubbery legs providing little support. As the heavy tides retreated back, I'd be pulled into the water once again and dooown my swimming trunks would go. I needed both hands to keep the waistband up, lest I expose myself unnecessarily to the hordes of squealing kids.
When I finally made it out of the water, I flopped in a heap onto my towel.
"Let's leave soon," I pleaded, trying not to sound too much like a baby about the pressure in my ear and my sore head.
We passed by a chemist for some ear drops on our way home.
"I had no idea you were feeling so poorly," Chris apologized, administering the medicine while I lay limply, like overcooked pak choy, on the couch.
"I was okay when we started," I reassured him feebly. "I was excited to do the walk."
However, I might have bitten off more than I can chew. After several recent occasions when I've had to wear stilettos, putting on a pair of trail walking shoes on a proper nature hike - for "only" eight kilometers - shocked my system so badly.
***
The next Friday saw Chris and myself faced with another sort of Dragon's Back - the cocktail kind.
My friend, Phil Oakden, General Manager of the gorgeously restored Marine Police Headquarters - renamed "Hullett House" - graciously invited us for a pre-opening dinner at "The Parlour," a restaurant within the new design-led heritage hotel. The drink was a delicious poison of muddled dragon fruit and lime, topped up with champagne. It glowed from within, like dragon's breath. Before Chris and I knew it, we had had three each of the potent elixir. And by the end of our delicious dinner, Hullett House's Graphic Designer, Alvin Cheng, had convinced us to down a couple more shots each of Jack Daniels. These, on top of the red wine we enjoyed with our mains and the dessert wine we had with our lemon merengue.
"Just make sure you can still walk after this," Chris warned me before Alvin and I threw the last bit of caution to the wind.
By the time the three of us made it to Volume for the "Vegas, My Ass" event, my mind had thankfully adapted the memory of a fish. I had blissfully lost all recollection of the events that happened next.
"I just saw James walk by with a look of thunder on his face," Justin told Chris.
I don't know how, or what time, Chris and I got home. But when I woke up the next morning, my hair was still unwashed and my contact lenses were still glued onto my corneas. Noel and Rai gleefully briefed me on my monstrous transformation the night before.
Apparently, I myself, had turned into a dragon.
With Affection,
Astron